Hanging Your Framed Artwork
Split Batten Hanging System

Depending on the design or size of your frame the back will be fitted with either a subframe around the internal perimeter or just a single batten along the top length.

For shallower frames with less internal depth (or by request) your frame may be fitted with d-rings and cord for hanging. Given that these are much more common we won’t explain using them here but are happy to advise by phone if helpful.

The split batten system makes use of an angled batten integrated into the frame that will slot securely over an opposing angled batten affixed to the wall.

Both are usually chamfered at 45 degrees and so when the two battens make secure contact and the weight of the frame is bearing down we are confident that this is one of the most reliable and straighforward ways to install your artwork.


– The frame will hang almost completely flat against the wall.
– It can be relatively simple to make the frame level.
– It is usually safe to move the picture a little to either side, if required for positioning, without the need to move the fixing (explained in more detail later).
– Millimeter precision is possible.

Hanging Your Framed Artwork
Install Guide

Tools you will need

Tape measure
Pencil/low-tac tape
Sprit level.
Drill and drill bits appropriate for the wall.
Rawl plugs appropriate for the wall.
Suitable screws
Tac hammer (to tap in the rawl plug)

At the back of your frame at the top there will be a small wall batten blue-taped for transport to the top batten of your frame. Remove the tape.

You’ll notice on the wall batten a number handwritten. This is the distance (in millimeters) from the top of the frame to the bottom edge of your wall batten.

Decide of the placement of your picture on the wall and use a pencil mark or a low-tac tape to mark on the wall the top and centre of your frame.

From the mark you have made measure down the distance (in millimeters) that we have notated on your batten. This will be the bottom edge of your batten.

Hold your wall batten up to that mark on the wall, with it’s bottom edge aligned to the mark. And use our pilot hole in the centre of the batten to guide your drill bit. This is where you should locate your rawl plug and screw (see part 6).

Without the batten in place use the mark or pilot hole you have made in the wall to drill a hole to the correct width and depth for your rawl plug and screw.
(For almost all wall surfaces we use a screw size 5x50mm).

Once you have tapped your rawl plug into the hole hold your batten in place and drive the screw through that central pilot hole and stright into your rawl plug.
(it can be a good idea to initially drive the screw through the batten by just a few millimeters, this can help by feel to locate the screw over the rawl plug, but it’s important not to drive it fully through the batten as the batten will spin and scratch the wall when you fit it.

This central fixing that you have just placed determines the overall position of the batten. The holes either side are useful to stabilise the batten in a level position but are not always essential, especially if the work is light weight and the central fixing is very firmly located in the wall. For larger pieces we would always advise additional fixings (see step 7).

To mark the left and right stabilising fixings first esure that your batten is dead level on the wall by balancing your spirit level on the top edge of the batten and making the central screw relatively secure. Then use the left and right pilot holes in the batten to guide your drill bit and mark the wall. Then loosen the central screw to allow the batten to tip out of the way while you drill and rawl plug the newly marked holes.

When the rawl plugs are in place make your batten level again and secure the central fixing, then carefully drive a screw in on either side. It can be helpful to have your spirit level balane on top meanwhile and keep an eye on the level. Sometimes over tightening the screws can disrupt the level and it can be better that they are balanced rather than overly tight.

You are ready to lft and rest your picture on the wall batten. Make sure as you gradully let it down that you can feel good contact is made and you should see that the top of the frame meets accurately with your guide mark on the wall.

Ideally the batten should be perfectly central to the width of the frame but as mentioned earlier the frame can be moved from left to right to some degree without problem. Please bear in mind that if you do need to do this please make sure to put in the stabilising screws discussed in part 7 or the weight of the frame will cause one side to dip.